The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a core of the shoe industry in the 1600s. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines heritage designs with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah trainers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb continues to be a defining name in English shoemaking.
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